The Thames and Severn WayOutdoor Leisure 14 - Wye Valley & Forest of Dean
Explorer 179 - Gloucester, Cheltenham & Stroud
Explorer 168 - Stroud, Tetbury & Malmesbury
Explorer 169 - Cirencester & Swindon
Explorer 170 - Abingdon, Wantage & Vale of White Horse
INTRODUCTION
The Cotswold Canals traverse some of the most beautiful parts of
the Cotswold countryside. A countryside of hills and valleys and
flowing water, where the abundant mills once gave the area prime
importance in the woollen industry, and indeed provided the
necessity for the canals. A long distance footpath links the
Rivers Severn and Thames following as closely as possible the
towpath of the Stroudwater Canal and Thames & Severn Canal-
The Thames & Severn Way.
It begins at Framilode church on the banks of the River Severn,
near the entrance to the Stroudwater Canal, and ends at Halfpenny
Bridge spanning the River Thames at Lechlade, just downstream
from the end of the Thames & Severn Canal at Inglesham.
Between them lie 36 miles of the most wonderful and contrasting
scenery.
Leaving the River Severn's own long distance footpath - the
Severn Way, the level farmland of the river gives way to the
gentle rise in the land towards Stroud past mills, former railway
lines, hanging woods and rushing water. The junction of the two
canals in their urban setting at Wallbridge, Stroud, contrasts
the narrowing valley of the River Frome as the climb towards the
summit pound of the canal begins in earnest.
The canal approaches Stroud's suburbs and, at Wallbridge, becomes
the Thames & Severn Canal. The Thames & Severn Canal
passes very close to the town centre as it continues its slow
climb to the summit level.
The "alpine" village of Chalford marks the entrance to
the Golden Valley - an autumn visit confirms the name. Locks come
thick and fast as the valley becomes ever steeper and narrower
until, finally, the summit pound is reached at a height of 310
feet above sea level at Daneway.
The canal passes through the Cotswold hills in Sapperton Tunnel
but the Thames & Severn Way follows the towing horses over
the hills to the Coates portal and on to the source of the River
Thames which marks the end of the Thames Long Distance Footpath.
The summit level twists and turns along the contours through open
countryside and comes close to Cirencester as it begins a more
gradual descent into the Thames Valley through flights of locks
at Siddington and South Cerney. Beyond Cerney Wick Lock is Latton
Junction which links with the former North Wilts Canal.
The line of the Thames and Severn Canal now passes through remote
countryside as it heads towards the River Thames. It passes Eisey
Manor and the village of Kempsford before the last roundhouse
which overlooks the junction with the river at Inglesham, near
Lechlade. This spot is best approached from Lechlade along the Thames side path or better still, by boat!
Much of the towpath is a public footpath but for those sections
which cross private farmland the Thames & Severn Way makes
use of nearby footpaths or country lanes. An aim of the Cotswold
Canals Trust is that one day all of the towpath will be
accessible to the public.
THE JOURNEY
The Thames and Severn Way begins on the bank of the River Severn
at St. Peter's Church, Upper Framilode overlooking the River
Severn. The Severn Way passes by along the river bank on its
journey south towards the Severn Estuary(OL14/751104).
Walk away from the river along the lane to the site of Framilode
Bridge. To the left is the infilled entry basin from the River
Severn which is best viewed from the far bank of the river on
Rodley Sands. To the right is the towpath leading away from the
River Severn past the Ship Inn. Cross Moor Street Bridge (OL14/752100) and continue along the towpath. When the canal ends
continue straight on with the River Frome on your left (walking
along the river bank not on top of the flood defence) climbing
the various fences and stiles and passing the former canalside
Drum and Monkey pub, which is now a private residence. The reed
filled canal re-appears on the right as Saul Junction comes into
view (OL14/756094).
At Saul Junction make sure you visit the Heritage Centre and take a trip boat
ride before crossing the Gloucester - Sharpness Canal using the
pedestrian swing bridge. Walk past the colourful narrow boats
moored on the Stroudwater Canal to reach Walk Bridge (OL14/758089). Walk Bridge was once a swing bridge but was fixed
after the canal was abandoned in 1954. Cross the lane and
continue along the curving left bank of the Stroudwater Canal.
Where the water ends is Whitminster Lock, which is being restored
by the Cotswold Canals Trust. The restored lock will connect into
the River Frome. Follow the right bank of the River Frome, past
the copse and underneath the electricity lines, to the concrete
farm bridge over the river. Cross over the bridge and walk along
the track to re-join the towpath of the Stroudwater Canal just
before the causeway which was Stonepits swing bridge. The
causeway may be replaced by a high level fixed bridge. Follow
the towpath eastward past Occupation Bridge, a recently restored
humpback bridge. Pass the Second World War pillbox and climb the
fence to emerges on the roundabout of the A38 road (OL14/774074).
The canal was infilled for about one kilometre when the M5 was
built. The restored canal with pass under each half of the A38
roundabout, crossing the centre of the roundabout in a cutting.
The canal will then head towards the River Frome bridge under the
M5 motorway where it will share the bridge in a separate concrete
channel. The new cut will rejoin the original line at Meadow Mill
spillweir.
The Thames And Severn Way temporarily leaves the line of the
canal to pass the A38/M5 infilled section. Walk a few metres up
the hill from the A38 roundabout and cross the dual carriageway
at the bottom of Whitminster Hill. Follow the footpath eastward
across the field. Walk along the lower side of the wood called
"The Grove" taking care not to disturb the bee hives!
The path curves up the slope to the left and follows the motorway
fence to the motorway bridge (OL14/782074). Cross the bridge and
follow the lane for half a kilometre to Westend. Take the field
route heading south to cross the A419. Continue straight on to
reach Westfield Bridge and the Stroudwater Canal (168/781063).
Westfield Bridge is temporarily a "bridge in a field"
with Westfield Lock buried under the grass above the lock. In
high summer the white strips of grass mark the walls of the main
chamber.
Follow the path eastward across the small concrete bridge over
Oldbury Brook to the Meadow Mill spillweir (168/782063). At one
time Oldbury Brook flowed into the canal, forming a large
triangle of water, and then out of it over the spillweir. A
boathouse here was the home of the canal companys ice-breaker.
Immediately west of the spillweir was the coal wharf from where
coal was taken by horse and cart to the woollen mills around
Eastington and beyond. Follow the towpath past Dock Lock to the
Pike Lock road crossing. Pike Lock Bridge has now been restored in the style of
the previous Edwardian structure. Cross the road and change to the left hand
side of the canal. The canal is now usable by small craft which
use the slipway at Eastington Wharf. Continue on past
the fully restored Blunder Lock and Newtown Lock to Newtown
Roving Bridge (168/789058).
Cross over the bridge and continue on past the worlds first
plastic lifting bridge at Bonds Mill. Follow the towpath through
the railway embankment, past the Ocean, St Cyr's church, and
under Nutshell Bridge. Continue along the towpath, under the old
Midland Railway skew bridge and then the new Haywards Bridge to
Ryeford Bridge (168/814046). Here the Thames and Severn Way
shares the towpath with the Cotswold Way as far as the
excellently restored Ebley Mill. The waterway remains wide and
clear, thanks to dredging by the Canal Trust in the 1980's, and
is much loved by anglers up to Ryeford Double Lock. From here the
canal is being restored as part of the new housing development to just beyond Ebley Mill
(168/829046). Soon after passing Ebley Mill the canal carries the flow of several small streams into
the River Frome. Pass the new Hilly Orchard footbridge, Dudbridge Lock
and Foundry Lock to arrive at Wallbridge and the end of the
Stroudwater Canal. The old basin is now infilled and used as a
depot for the Severn-Trent Water Authority but some original
buildings remain.
The Thames and Severn Canal now begins. Follow the path to the
left of the large green steel structure to Wallbridge Lower Lock (168/846052). Continue along the towpath and across the A46 road
to Wallbridge Middle Wharf. Pass the restored Wallbridge Upper
Lock, and the Bell Hotel, and continue on to where the canal
stops at the "dry" bridge under Dr. Newtons Way. Pass
under the bridge and follow the footpath under the railway
viaduct and over the old rubbish tip to re-join the towpath at
the River Frome aqueduct. Follow the towpath past Arundel Mill
pond, Bowbridge Lock (168/857044) and Griffin Mill Lock. Just
past the lock is the very attractive Jubilee Bridge. Continue on
past Ham Mill Lock to Air Plants factory (168/864027). The
factory site covers Hope Mill Lock and was the Abdella and
Mitchell boatyard. Follow the towpath past Goughs' Orchard Lock
to the Ship Inn at Brimscombe (168/868024).
The Thames and Severn Way now crosses the historic site of
Brimscombe Port. From the Ship Inn cross over the road and follow
the factory road for a short way and then straight on along a
footpath to the A419 opposite the Brimscombe shops. Turn right
along the footpath and turn right again just before the office
entrance to the Fenworth factory. Walk down the path and turn
left around the offices. Note the plaque recording this site as
being Brimscombe Port and a plate from a milepost on the factory
wall. Walk across the parking area to join the road which follows
the River Frome. Follow at first the road and then a footpath,
with the river to the right, along the edge of the old port to
Bourne Lock (168/873022). Walk under the arch of the railway
viaduct and follow the towpath past Beales Lock to St Mary's Lock (168/887023). This lock is named after the nearby St Marys Mill.
The railway crossing at the former St Mary's Halt above the lock
is listed and cannot, therefore, be automated. The embankment
blocking navigation at the head of the lock was once spanned by a
massive wooden viaduct designed in 1845 by the great Victorian
Engineer Isambard Kingdom Brunel as part of the Cheltenham and
Great Western Union Railway.
From St Mary's Lock pass through the tube under the railway line
and continue along the towpath past Illes Lock and the infilled
Ballingers Lock, which has a row of garages built on it, to
Chalford Round House (168/893025). This is the first of five
round houses along the canal. Some roofs are upwards conical like
this one. Others have downwards conical roofs which acted as a
funnel to gather rainwater for storage in under ground tanks.
Note the plate from a milepost above the culvert leading into the
canal opposite the round house. The end wall of the first
building past the culvert has the faint remains of an
advertisement on it. This is best seem from Chalford Church up on
the A419. The advertisement reads "James Smart........
Boats, Barges.......".
Passing below the James Smart advert the canal disappears and
only the towpath remains following road widening in the 1950s.
Chapel Lock lies buried in the grass verge opposite the
"Noah's Ark" cycle shop. The towpath follows the
boundary wall of the one time Bliss Mills complex past Chalford
Chairs factory to the crossing of the A419. The copious springs
flowing into the canal are part of what is known locally as the
"Black Gutter". Cross the A419 and pass the infilled
Bell Lock. The head of the lock can still be seen although the
rest of the lock chamber was filled in as part of the Cowcombe
Hill road widening and straightening in the 1930's.
Follow the towpath past Clowes Bridge and Red Lion Lock. The
track over the bridge and up the hillside was closed by the
building of the railway. The top of the offside bottom quoin has
carved in it the inscription "Herbert Stansfield, 4 December
1784". he was the stone mason who built this lock. The canal
now clings to the edge of the valley to avoid what was once the
millpond of Sevilles Mill and is now usually patrolled by a flock
of geese. Like the millpond the mill has also vanished. The canal
becomes wide and reedy and is fed by more outflows of the Black
Gutter. Valley Lock lies above a mill leat which now the main
course of the River Frome. The remains of the mill culverts and
the circular marks made by a water wheel can be seen just below
the lock.
All of the locks from Valley Lock, over the summit, to
Wildmoorway Lower Lock were shortened soon after the canal was
opened to save water. They were shortened by building new top
gate recesses over an arched extension to the top cill.
"Double top gate recesses" are a unique feature of the
Thames & Severn Canal.
The Thames and Severn Way now enters the Golden Valley and the
steep climb to the summit pound begins. This is the most heavily
locked section of the canal, passing Bakers Mill Locks and
reservoir, Puck Mill Locks (168/921029), Whitehall Locks,
Bathursts Meadow Lock, Siccarage Wood Locks with their side ponds
and finally the Daneway Locks. The Daneway Inn, whose car park is
the infilled top lock, (168/939034) marks the start of the
summit pound at 106 metres (310 feet) above sea level. The now
level towpath winds along the hillside to the Daneway Portal of
Sapperton Tunnel (168/944034). This one time gothic structure
has been restored to its former glory by stone masons
commissioned by the Canal Trust and English Heritage.
Sapperton Tunnel passes for 3.5 kilometres at a maximum depth of
70 metres under the Cotswold Hills. The Thames and Severn Way
passes above the portal and diagonally up across the field
towards Sapperton village, following the route taken by the
horses. The field path turns into an upwards path between the
cottages. At the road turn left towards St Kenelms Church and
then turn right at the church up the lane past the Bell Inn.
Follow the lane out of the village, turn right and after 100
metres turn left at the cross roads. The clumps of beech trees on
top of small mounds mark construction shafts to the canal tunnel
below. These shafts are capped by rotting timber and earth covers
and are very dangerous. DO NOT INVESTIGATE THESE MOUNDS.
Follow the road for 1 kilometre and then follow the path
downwards across the field on the right. Cross the A419 (168/957020) and the opposite field to enter Hailey Woods.
Follow the track through the wood passing through the bridge
under Gods Wonderful Railway (168/965010) to arrive at the
Tunnel Inn and the Coates Portal (168/956006).
The Coates Portal is a magnificent classical structure restored
by the Canal Trust in 1977. Follow the towpath along the Kings
Reach and under Tarlton road bridge to Coates round house. The
round house has been rescued from further dereliction by the
Canal Trust and once had an inverted conical roof. Continue under
the skew railway bridge and on for about one kilometre to
Coatesfield (sometimes called Trewsbury) Bridge (168/978001).
The towpath now ceases to be a public right of way. Turn right
from the towpath onto the bridge and follow the lane down to the
field. Follow the path across two fields to the source of the
River Thames (168/995981). A visit to this area in a wet winter
will show that whilst this place is the official source of the
River Thames the actual source of the river are the springs
inside Sapperton Tunnel.
Continue across two more fields to join the A433 Cirencester to
Tetbury road. Turn left along the road passing over the canal at
Thames Head. At the next cross roads turn right to Smerrill and
the A429 road. Just before Smerrill the remains of the Smerrill
aqueduct embankment are on the right (168/998988). At the A429
turn right and after 100 metres turn left towards Ewen. Pass
under the old Cirencester branch line rail bridge at Ewen Wharf (169/001985). The canal is on the left with Halfway Bridge
hidden amongst the trees just after the railway bridge.
Walk up the track to the restored Halfway Bridge, so named as it
is halfway between Stroud and Lechlade, go down the steps on the
left side of the bridge to join the towpath. The towpath is part
of farmland owned by Lady Gibbs and it is with her kind
permission that we can follow the canal for the next kilometre.
Pass under the bridge and continue on to the lane at Park Leaze (169/006985). There was once a humpbacked bridge here. Cross
over the lane and follow the towpath until it rejoins the nearby
lane. Follow the lane towards Siddington. The canal has become a
grassy field spanned by electricity pylons. After one kilometre
there is a stile in the hedge (169/015990). Follow the path
across the field to Bluehouse Farm, which was once a lengthmans
cottage. From Bluehouse Farm the canal follows the contour in
huge sweeping curves on an embankment to Siddington top lock.
Turn right down the track to rejoin the lane. The canal crosses
the lane about 50 metres before the road junction. Turn left at
the Somerfor Keynes road and after 50 metres turn right to
Siddington. At the playing field turn right along the lane to the
humpback bridge at the top of the Siddington flight of locks (169/031996).
Just before the top lock is the junction with the former
Cirencester Arm, which is now a private garden. The Cirencester
Arm followed the field edge behind Pound Close. For a short
distance the forlorn remains of the canal channel can be seen
before the Love Lane industrial estate removes all traces of the
canal. The line of the canal runs under the Somerfield
supermarket, the bypass and a housing estate. The basin at the
end of the arm is marked by Whitworth Road, in honour of the
Robert Whitworth who built the canal.
From Siddington the Thames and Severn Way now follows the towpath
to beyond Cricklade. From the humpback bridge walk down the
towpath past the first locks on the long, gentle descent towards
the River Thames. Pass the house built over the bottom lock of
this four lock flight and cross over the Ashton Keynes road. The
canal is now just about in water, although crossed by two farm
causeways. It remains this way until Cowground Bridge is reached (169/037992). Cowground Bridge is one of the few remaining
humpback bridges on the eastern half of the Cotswold Canals. The towpath now leads on
to cross the ancient water meadows of the River Churn.
The canal emerges from its enclosing hedges to a much more open
aspect across level meadows. Directly ahead across the meadows is
the River Churn. In the 16th century a system of water channels
was created across these meadows fed by temporary wooden dams at
stone abutments built into the river course. The diverted water
was allowed to flood the meadows during the winter months to
prevent the grass from freezing and encourage the growth of an
early crop of grass for the sheep which were grazed there. This
process was often repeated a number of times during the year.
When the canal was constructed culverts were built under the low
embankment to allow the practice of flooding the water meadows to
continue.
The embankment across the water meadows leads to the foot bridge
over the River Churn. The earth embankment which carried the
canal over the culverted river was blown up during the Second
World War by the Home Guard as an exercise. This section of
towpath was unusable, until a few years ago when the Ramblers
Association erected the wooden foot bridge. Follow the towpath
with glimpses of the winding River Churn through the trees to the
right. The route passes through a deep cutting and emerges at the
now grassed over top lock of the South Cerney flight (169/046983).
Crossing the road the canal vanishes. The Thames and Severn Way
follows the footpath along the line of the canal diagonally to
the right across the field. Buried in this field are two locks
and during the dry summer months the outline of the circular
pounds and lock chamber walls can still be seen. Old photographs
show the canal across this field bordered by a drystone wall,
hedge and mature trees. The next road crossing at Northmoor Lane
reveals an extensively restored canal (169/052982) which is a
major work site for the Cotswold Canals Trust, the Dig Deep
Organisation and the Waterways Recovery Group extending all the
way to beyond Wildmoorway Lower Lock.
The often water filled canal gently winds its way towards Bow Wow
Lane, South Cerney, and the site of Crane Bridge. Soon after is
Boxwell Spring Lock (169/057977) which has been completely
structurally restored. The stop planks which impound the water
above the lock will be replaced by lock gates when the canal is
ready for full navigation. Away to the right are the first signs
of the Cotswold Water Park lakes which border the canal for the
next few kilometres.
The gentle descent towards the Thames continues passing Upper
Wildmoorway Lock, sometimes known as Humpback Lock, to Lower
Wildmoorway Lock (169/072973). This lock is unique in having a
side pond designed to save water during the operation of the
lock. The remains of the side pond can be seen next to the
towpath as it passes the lock chamber. The lock has been
structurally restored and the canal between the lock and the
Spine Road was fully dredged as part of the Dig '95 major canal
restoration event.
The Thames and Severn Way crosses the Spine Road which was built
to allow the removal of the gravel which created the Water Park.
The towpath then passes the Water Park Visitor Centre. The
towpath borders the overgrown canal bed to Cerney Wick Lock, the
nearby Crown Inn and another of the round houses (169/078960).
The lock has been restored by volunteers from the Cotswold Canals
Trust. Crossing the lane to Cerney Wick the Thames and Severn Way
continues to the site of Latton Basin (169/087954). Sadly,
little remains of this junction with the narrow gauge North Wilts
Canal.
The Thames and Severn Way now reverts to a public footpath
crossing the lane and following the north bank of the River
Churn. The shallow depression to the left is the canal. The canal
depression vanishes and the footpath swings to the left across
the field to the far corner and the A419 (169/093953). The
missing canal will be re-instated as part of the new Latton
bypass. Follow the footpath towards Cricklade and on to the old
road for one kilometre to the former Cricklade wharfhouse (169/099945). Turn left along the lane and cross the A419.
Follow the road verge for 100 metres to the right and turn left,
over two stiles to rejoin the dry channel and towpath of the
Thames and Severn Canal.
Follow the towpath for one kilometre on the low embankment and
cross Ampney Brook. The embankment over the brook and for the
next 200 metres has vanished. The Thames and Severn Way follows
the bank of the brook for a few metres and then proceeds along
the unsurfaced track east towards Eisey Manor. The entrance drive
to the manor is flanked by two canal mileposts, complete with
distance plates removed when the canal was partly infilled.
There is now very little of the remaining towpath which is a
public right of way. A short there and back walk may be made
continuing along the track for one kilometre to visit Eisey Lock
and its remote lock keepers cottage. Returning to Eisey Manor,
walk away from the manor across the infilled canal, where once
there was a humpback bridge. After one kilometre the Kempsford
road is reached. Turn right and follow the road for about two
kilometres. One hundred metres past the left hand turning to
Marston Meysey turn right down the track which leads towards
Marston Meysey round house. Just before the round house turn left
over a stile onto a track skirts the boundary of the round house.
The track turns sharp right onto the infilled canal bed. The
infilling took place so long ago that there is now no visible
trace of the canal. Climb over the stile and head east along the
rough ground, which was the canal, between the field fences.
Continue along the edge of the next field. At the field corner
continue left for twenty or so metres to the entrance into the
next field. The canal line continues ahead bearing to the left
towards the distant hedge and the former Crooked Bridge. The
Thames and Severn Way bears slightly to the right straight across
the field to the drive leading to the Second Chance Caravan Park.
Turn left along the drive to the lane.
Walk up the lane for one hundred metres to its highest point.
This is the site of Crooked Bridge which once crossed the canal
at a sharp angle, hence the name. Continue along the lane to the
Kempsford road and turn right. After one kilometre Oatlands
Bridge can be spotted to the right down a short track. The bridge
is in excellent condition although the canal, which was on a
slight embankment, has been totally ploughed out of existence.
There is a brick built into one of the parapets which has the
words " Stonehouse Brick Company" cast into it. The
bricks for this bridge and probably other buildings in the area
were brought by boat all the way from Stonehouse.
Continue on towards Kempsford and turn right, past the Anchor
Inn, into the village. Continue through the village for almost
one kilometre to the site of the canal crossing at Kempsford
Bridge (169/161967). Alas the canal only exists as a grassy
strip and stables. Just before the crossing turn left along Ham
Lane. The road turns into a gravel track leading to a junction of
tracks and footpaths. Turn right keeping the gravel workings on
the left. Where the track rises and the gravel workings end is
the site of Green Lane Bridge. Continue on to join the Hannington
Lane (169/168964).
The final section of the Thames and Severn Way has to follow the
Thames Path as there are no public footpaths following the route
of the canal. The delights the canal passing Brazen Church Hill
and of Dudgrove Double Lock must remain a secret for the time
being. Follow the lane over the River Thames and after 200 metres
turn left along a metalled track. After 100 metres, just before
the entrance to a house, follow the bridle path on the right.
This track continues for 1.5 kilometres. Eventually a stream is
crossed by a footbridge. After 100 metres follow the hedge line
to the right to Upper Inglesham (170/195965). There now follows
an unpleasant 2 kilometres northwards along the fast and busy
A361 towards Lechlade. Turn left along the lane to Inglesham
Church (170/195965). The field on the right is the site of the
medieval Inglesham village. Just before the houses climb the
stile on the right and follow the backs of the gardens to the
River Thames. Follow the river bank to the end of the Thames and
Severn Canal (170/205988) and its confluence with the River Coln
and the River Thames. The footbridge over the river is a good
viewpoint for the end of the canal and its round house hidden
amongst the reeds and weeping willows. Continue on along the
river bank to Halfpenny Bridge and the end of the Thames and
Severn Way.
The Cotswold Canals Trust is a registered charity, number 269721.
Copyright @2007 Richard Attwood and the Cotswold Canals Trust
The CCT may be contacted at mail@cotswoldcanals.com
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